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It’s too nice out to spend time in the kitchen. Oh wait, never mind — it’s actually soup weather again. Ah, spring in the Pacific Northwest.
Whether or not the weather cooperates with your meal planning, it’s still a good time to take an inventory of your pantry and freezer and use up the stuff you stashed there during last summer’s bounty. Maybe you still have a jar or two of applesauce or blackberry jam in there, or a couple quarts of pickles. Time to make room for this year’s superabundance!
Real talk: If you’re a borderline food hoarder like me, you’ve got a few corn cobs in the freezer. (Please note that I do not mean corn on the cob, I mean empty cobs that I already cooked, and from which all of the corn has been eaten, like a Dust Bowl granny or home ec LARPer would have.) This dish is a perfect use for them — pull those cobs out and chuck them into the pot with the aromatics. Same goes for any bags of roasted peppers or jars of stewed tomatoes you may have put up. This is their moment.
Quesabirria really had a moment a few years ago, starting in Tijuana and Los Angeles, then going viral on Instagram shot the dish straight up the I-5 corridor, eventually catching up to Oregon. Taco trucks began adding to the menu the crispy, gooey tacos filled with melted cheese and stewed beef (or goat, if you found a really legit birria spot) alongside a cup of the rich consome for dipping. They’re messy, but the orange grease stains are worth it.
If you’re a sensory-seeking eater who doesn’t mind a meal that comes with wet-naps, birria probably isn’t your first rodeo. (Barbecue and crab boil enthusiasts know what I’m talking about — sometimes it’s good to drown your food.) There’s also the drippy, saucy torta ahogada (“drowned sandwich”), which eats with all of the grace of a drunken make-out session.
Theoretically, you can ahogada anything from flautas to tostadas, and if you’re a fan of oval plate Mexican joints where everything comes with a pool of silky refritos, a pile of red rice and a heap of iceberg, you’ve probably seen an option to have a burrito served “wet.” (The same goes with New Mex-style joints, where you may have been forced to answer “Christmas” rather than choose between red or green sauce.) This is the same idea — there’s just no way you’re going to pick that thing up and eat it with your hands without making a mess.
Watch Güero owner Megan Sanchez make her signature torta on “Oregon Art Beat”
Of course, no one ever suggests eating enchiladas with one’s hands, even though they’re basically just taquitos ahogadas. (I’m only half-joking; now I want to start making nachos ahogadas instead of chilaquiles.) This is right about in the sweet spot of brothy and saucy, with crispy, gooey tacos for dipping. Your white shirt never stood a chance. Serves 4-6
Note: You can make this vegetarian or vegan by using mashed potatoes, beans or shredded squash instead of chicken in the tacos. This is also a superb way to use leftover rotisserie chicken — just remove the skin first. (Pro-tip: Crisp it up in the toaster oven and crumble it over the top of the soup like oyster crackers.)
Ingredients
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 pound skinless, boneless chicken thighs or breast
1 small white or yellow onion, chopped and divided in half
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium-sized carrot, diced
1 pasilla or poblano pepper, seeded, stemmed and diced
1 small red bell pepper, seeded, stemmed and diced
2 tablespoons powdered ancho chiles, Aleppo pepper or paprika
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano, crushed (Italian oregano is fine)
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 corn on the cob (or 2-3 corn cobs plus ½ cup frozen corn kernels)
6 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 small (7.75 ounce) can of hot tomato sauce, such as El Pato
1 teaspoon or cube chicken bouillon (optional)
½ teaspoon MSG (optional)
12 corn tortillas (or enough for 2-3 per person)
8 ounces Oaxaca cheese or mozzarella (or jack), shredded (2 cups)
1 cup chopped cilantro
Cooking spray or neutral oil
For serving: sliced radishes, lime wedges, cilantro, sliced jalapeños, avocado, cotija cheese, sour cream, tortilla chips
Instructions
- Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 425° and line a baking sheet with parchment.
- Heat the oil over medium heat in a large, heavy-bottomed pot, then add the chicken thighs, cooking until browned, about 3-4 minutes per side (it’s OK if they aren’t cooked through). Remove the chicken to a bowl and add half the chopped onion with the other vegetables to the pot, stirring to coat in the oil and chicken drippings. Cook until the vegetables begin to become glossy and brown on the edges, about 6-8 minutes.
- Stir in the spices, stirring to coat the vegetables, and cook for about 30 seconds to activate the fragrance before adding the corn cob, broth and tomato sauce. Add the bouillon and MSG (if using), return the chicken thighs to the pot and bring to a boil.
- Once it comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the vegetables are tender and the chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning, then cover and set the burner to the lowest setting.
- Remove the chicken thighs again and set them in the bowl to cool slightly before shredding.
- Dip a tortilla into the broth, add a little of the shredded chicken, shredded cheese, diced onion and cilantro to make a small taco, then fold and arrange on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining tortillas, chicken and cheese, then spritz the tacos with cooking spray or drizzle on a little oil, and bake until the cheese is melted and the tortillas have crisped up, about 15-20 minutes, flipping halfway. (You can also do this in a pan on the stove if you prefer.)
- While the tacos are baking, blend the soup until it’s smooth.
- Serve the chicken quesabirria tacos with bowls of the soup for dipping (or in the soup, for ahogada style). Top the bowls with your favorite extras.