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The vernal equinox is still a couple of weeks off, but meteorologists have their own definition of spring — March 1, which likely aligns better with your own observations of things stirring around you. You’ve probably seen the daffodils popping up, maybe even noticed a few tiny irises peeping out; you’ve no doubt heard more chatter from neighborhood birds, signaling their availability to potential mates as they ready their nests for little ones. And depending on the type of circles you run in, you might be noticing a lot more fish sandwiches on fast food menus.
Though they’re better known for their fried chicken, Popeyes recently brought back their seasonal fried fish sandwich as an alternative for people eschewing meat for Lent, and Burger King, Dairy Queen and Arby’s have their own Lenten fish sandos too (not sure why our local chain Burgerville hasn’t jumped on board, since they already offer fish and chips). McDonald’s sells a quarter of its famous Filet-O-Fish sandwiches during Lent every year; in fact, this is why the item was invented in the first place, when a franchisee in a largely Catholic neighborhood of Cincinnati, Ohio, noticed flagging sales during the month-long religious observance back in the 1960s. At the time, the only meatless McD’s sando was the “Hula Burger,” consisting of a hot pineapple ring covered in melted cheese (which sounds great — if it came with a pork patty).
Even nice, white-tablecloth joints like St. Jack in Portland have a spin on the beloved filet o’ fish just for Lent, but Catholics aren’t the only folks who observe a period of religious fasting, which got me thinking: what kind of fish sandwich would be suitable for the iftar meal of Ramadan, when people aren’t just abstaining from meat — rather, they haven’t eaten a single thing all day? Something fried in a soft pita with lots of garlic sauce and pickles sounds just about right — especially this month, when Lent and Ramadan happen to overlap.
After a day of fasting and prayer, at sundown it’s more traditional to have a meal that’s ready to eat (this is why rich stews and roasts are typical iftar fare), but the Turkish fish sandwich balik ekmek is already a ubiquitous street food, and the spiced fish dish samak mashwi is eaten throughout the Arabian Peninsula during Ramadan — so why not combine these into one?
Here, I’ve dredged Pacific lingcod filets in baharat-spiced breadcrumbs (using mayo instead of eggs to help the breadcrumbs stick) and air-fried them to make cleanup easier and save on pricey oil. The garlic sauce (toum) made by Karam’s in Seattle is a fridge staple in my house, but toum is very easy to make at home. Like most things, this is obviously better with french fries, especially if you stuff them inside the sandwich. Makes four shawarmas.
Note: The fried fish portion of this recipe is adapted from the “Air Fryer Lingcod and Jojos” recipe I developed for the Oregon Trawl Commission in 2022. If you can’t find baharat spice mix in stores, you can mix your own.
Ingredients
3 tablespoons neutral oil
1 clove of garlic, finely minced
1¼ cup breadcrumbs (panko or fine)
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 tablespoons baharat, divided
1½ cup flour
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1-1 ½ pound lingcod or Pacific cod fillet
Oil spray
4 large Greek pitas, lavash or other soft flatbread
4 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
1 medium-sized tomato, chopped
½ red onion, sliced
Other toppings: Garlic sauce, mixed pickles (store-bought giardiniera is fine) and hot sauce/harissa
French fries for serving (optional)
Instructions
- Preheat your air fryer to 400° or your oven to 425°. If using the oven, position the rack at the top.
- If you’re including french fries, cook them halfway (about 10 minutes) and then set aside.
- Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs, garlic, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and the pepper, and stir them around as they toast for about 5 minutes. When the panko is golden brown, stir in 1 tablespoon of the baharat and transfer to a shallow bowl.
- In a shallow bowl, stir together the flour, garlic powder, and onion powder.
- In another shallow bowl, whisk the mayonnaise with 1 teaspoon of water.
- Cut the lingcod into 8 pieces and season all over with the other teaspoon of salt and remaining baharat. Dredge the pieces in the seasoned flour, then the mayo, then the panko mix. Set the breaded lingcod on an oven-proof wire rack set over a rimmed baking tray.
- Spritz cooking spray on the fish and fries, then cook in the preheated air fryer or oven, turning halfway to ensure even browning, until the fish is firm to the touch, about 10-15 minutes. Season with another sprinkle of salt immediately after removing from the oven, then place the flatbread in the hot air fryer or oven (turned off) for a minute to warm up.
- Assemble the shawarmas by layering the lettuce, tomatoes, onion, and fish on the warm bread, then add sauces, pickles, and fries as desired.