OPB’s “Superabundant” explores the stories behind the foods of the Pacific Northwest with videos, articles and this weekly newsletter. To keep you sated between episodes, we’ve brought on food writer Heather Arndt Anderson, a Portland-based culinary historian and ecologist, to highlight different aspects of the region’s food ecosystem. This week she shares a new video episode of “Superabundant” — on corn — and offers a recipe for esquites (Mexican corn salad).

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It’s a big lump with knobs, it has the juice — it’s corn! — and it’s the latest episode of “Superabundant.” Oregon may not be a big corn state, but corn is big here; after all, we did invent the corn dog. Just because corn doesn’t have its roots in the Northwest doesn’t mean we don’t adore the stuff — we even have our own corn festival, now in its 55th year. Do you know which small Oregon town hosts this corn festival every year? Read on (and watch!) to find out!

A new episode of ‘Superabundant,’ super-deluxe cherries, and good things in gardens and markets

Freshly picked morsels from the Pacific Northwest food universe:

A brand-new episode of “Superabundant”

It’s Corn! That’s right, everyone’s favorite C4 grass is the star of the latest “Superabundant.” When it comes to corn production, Oregon is definitely no Iowa — but the cultural shifts and changing climate are reflected in the food we grow and eat in the state. Oregon’s growing community of Latinx folks is bringing the ingredients and cuisine along with it, and maize is central to that. Of course, the corn dogs in Rockaway Beach and buttery ears of corn on the cob served at the Aumsville Corn Festival aren’t too shabby either.

Watch the new episode:

Asian markets go wild for rare Northwest cherries

Anna King reports that a greenhouse in Kennewick, Washington, is growing cherries that can go for $10 each (as in per cherry!) overseas. The greenhouse-grown Rainiers are labor-intensive, but the superior flavor, color, and mammoth size of the fruits — the cherries are nearly as big as golf balls — makes them worth the hefty price.

In the ‘Superabundant’ garden this week

The garden beds are overflowing with too much parsley! Luckily we’re big fans of Levantine and Mediterranean food, but it’ll be a race against the clock to eat it all before it bolts. The hobak (Korean zucchini) is covered in giant blossoms and tiny squash, which reminds us of this pro tip: If you get to the point where you’re buried in summer squash, just harvest the blossoms instead to slow that squash’s roll — the female blossoms are the ones with the baby squash attached. You can stuff them with cheese, batter and fry them, or add them to soup. Lindens are blooming too, perfuming the air (and maybe your teapot) with their sweet fragrance.

Good things in markets

The first Northwest cherries are beginning to trickle in, but the U-pick spots won’t open for a couple more weeks. Strawberries are still going strong, and while we’re still enjoying our springtime friends rhubarb, asparagus and green garlic, we’re definitely more excited about the summer squash and basil. Lingcod and summer steelhead are at their peak.

Recipe: Esquites (Mexican corn salad)

Corn is the ultimate summer ingredient, and it’s the ultimate American ingredient as well. It’s come a long way since the nubby little teosinte grass heads that Mesoamericans tamed through selective breeding thousands of years ago (the OG GMO). As ubiquitous as it is, showing up in everything from candy to countertops, corn will always taste best to us straight from the cob. This classic Mexican street food — basically elotes that don’t require a grill — lets corn take center stage while cotija cheese and fresh cilantro offer backup. If you don’t feel like cutting corn off the cob, you can use frozen corn kernels instead. Serves 4-6.

Ingredients

2 tbsp butter

3 cups sweet corn kernels (or 4 ears of corn)

1 tsp kosher salt

¼ cup finely diced sweet onion

1 jalapeño, seeded, stemmed, and finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely minced

2 tbsp mayonnaise

Juice from 1 lime

1 tsp smoked paprika

¼ tsp cayenne pepper (or more to taste)

½ cup fresh cilantro, rough-chopped

½ cup crumbled cotija

Instructions

1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the corn kernels and sprinkle on the salt, and stir to coat the corn in the butter. Let it cook for a couple of minutes without stirring, then stir and let it cook another couple minutes, until it begins to brown.
2. Stir in the onion, jalapeño and garlic, reduce the heat to medium, and stir fry until the onions and jalapeño begin to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer everything to a mixing bowl.
3. In a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the mayo, lime juice, smoked paprika and cayenne pepper until fully combined, then fold it into the corn mixture, stirring to coat evenly. Add the cilantro and cotija (reserve a little for garnish) and serve immediately.

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